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Other people who used our service recently to easily get quotes:

17 May 2012 - Heather from GAYNDAH, QLD
I am just looking for prices per sq metre

16 May 2012 - Barclay from THE VINES, WA
will be going to pre start soon and need an idea of what cork flooring would cost

16 May 2012 - Barclay from THE VINES, WA
will be going to pre start soon and need an idea of what cork flooring would cost

16 May 2012 - Zafirah from WEST HOXTON, NSW
We are building a new house, looking to get timber flooring in particular bamboo flooring.

16 May 2012 - Adam from KILLARA, NSW
would you be able to re-polish the timber floor while repairing it?

Timber Floor Installation of Floating Timber

To start off with your timber floor installation, you need to make sure that your timber floor boards are suitable as floating timber floors. Solid timber flooring, for instance, is not advisable for floating floor installation because it has a high tendency to expand, which is why it has to be nailed or glued to a sub-floor. Engineered or timber laminate flooring can also be used as a floating laminate floor.
 
The next step is to check if your sub-floor will readily accept your flooring. For a floating floor, the sub-floor could be either made of timber, concrete, screed or a combination of all three. It is required that your sub-floor should be flat and level without any deviations that are greater than plus or minus 2mm over 1.5m. You can level the floor using various methods. For cupped and crowned floor boards, they required a ‘plying over’ using a 3mm ply or hardboard. This ply need to be stapled with an 18 gauge 18mm staples or nailed down with annular ring shank nails not longer than 20mm. Care is used in nailing the boards to avoid hitting the water or gas pipe. A thicker sheet of ply is also used measuring from 9 to 18mm. If the floor remains un-level even after plying then a latex levelling compound is used. Make sure that the material can be used on timber like the Adtitex yellow bag and black bottle.
 
Once the sub-floor is levelled, undercutting the door frames, nule posts and architraves begin. This is very crucial because it allows you to archive a seamless finish as well as provides an expansion allowance for the boards. An undercut saw is popularly used but a good alternative can be performed by using a small piece of the flooring to be mounted on a piece of underlay. Doing so will give you the right height, which you can now undercut with a small handsaw rested on top of the flooring and underlay. A 25-30mm gap is often left between the existing floor, like your tiles and your new timber floor to make room for a graduating door bar to be installed.
 
You are now ready to begin the crucial stage of your timber floor installation, which is underlaying the floor.  You basically unroll the underlay on the floor, checking to see if it reaches the edges without flapping up. There is no need to place an underlay below the frames that you will be cutting out or under the nule posts for that matter. This will only get in the way when you install your floor.
 
For a screed or concrete floor, your underlay must have a DPM or a damp roof membrane. Many modern underlays for floating floor installation have this built-in feature. However for a suspended timber flooring, a DPM is no longer necessary as well as fully taping together the underlay. Taping at an estimated 300mm intervals will do while the floor is in the process of being fitted.
 
Once you have installed your underlay, begin fitting your floor. You need to identify first the longest and straightest wall because your floor should always run with it. For rooms with radiators, begin here because it is easy to cut around the pipes as compared to the last line. The first line of the boards is then laid with the groove of the board wall facing. Once you reach the end of the line, the final board needs to be cut. You can measure this as such: If your board has a tongue laid on the floor, place the final board with the end groove resting against the wall that you will be finishing on. Leave a 10mm gap between the end groove against the wall, then make a marking of what you need to cut. If this is too complicated, you could use a tape measure and then just use the off cut when you begin the next line.
 
If you have completed two rows in your timber floor installation, leave a space from the wall to the floor of about 10mm expansion gap by using plastic scrapers. There may be areas where the measurement is not precise, this will do as long as it is not less than 5mm or more than the breadth of the skirting or beading, which will be used to cover the gap. However, if you are working on a big room, then you need not be too exacting with your expansion gap.
 
Continue on with your timber floor installation with care to keep the expansion gap all across the room. You do this by staggering all the joints by at least 300mm for each row. To have that perfect timber floors, be mindful of your boards and discard those with dark or oddly grained, or better yet keep them in not so obvious places like under the stairs. Make room for a door bar by leaving a 35mm gap from the edge of the new floor and any existing floor. Your new floating floor should end just inside where the door stops or approximately 5mm. This is important so that your door bar will fit underneath your door and you will not be able to see the flooring looking from the other room.  
 
After completing your timber floor installation, take off your installation wedges after 12 hours so that the glue can fully adhere. Then you are now ready to put your skirting and beading.